Rabbit Care Information
I have decided to insert this information to all for anyone who is a new rabbit owner or who just needs a little bit of advice when caring for a rabbit.
Housing
- A clean, warm in winter, cold in summer hutch or cage is needed (Preferably away from drafty places).
- I tend to use woodchips for flooring as it also soaks up urine. Depending on time of year I add extra hay for bedding for warmth.
- I would refrain from using sawdust as it can get in rabbits eyes, nose and ears and cause unwanted health issues.
- During summer months and at night make sure your bunny is covered to prevent flies and mosquitoes from entering the hutch as major health problems can occur. Even death. Materials I use are: flyscreen, shaycloth and thin curtain material.
Feeding
Rabbits need a constant supply of food whether it be hay, veggies or pellets as there bowels can stop working and death can be a result without URGENT vetinary assistance.
- I keep a constant supply of food in their cage. I give them a mixture of hay, pellets and dried seeds. Be careful with pellets as some of my mini lops wont eat them as their too hard to eat.
- Hay is a great source of dietary fibre for rabbits. I tend to give my rabbits a handful of hay at least once a day.
- Regular treats of fruits and vegies is also very beneficial for bunny's growth and also helps keep their teeth nice and short. I give my rabbits carrots, broccoli and bok choy once a week. Be aware that giving your bunny too many vegies can cause them to get runny poo which is very difficult to clean off their coat!!!
- A constant supply of cold water must be available at all times. During hot months frozen or chilled water is recommended as heat kills rabbits.
- Chew toys are also a good way to file bunnies teeth down and prevent them from chewing on the hutch. I use the flavoured wood pieces that are available in most pet stores. It is also an excellent way from preventing them from chewing the hutch and keeps them entertained.
Desexing
- Highly recommended!!
- Neutered bunnies seem to be healthier and live longer than non-neutered rabbits. This is due to the reduced risk of reproductive cancers in females and reduces the risk of aggressive and destructive behaviour in males. Both sexes also tend to be more loving and calm. Unneutered males spray and tend to be more eager to find a way to escape the hutch to find a mate.
- Females: once sexually mature (about 6 months)
- Males: once testicles have descended (about 5 - 6 months)
Exercise
- Rabbits need at least half an hour to 1 hour of exercise every 1-2 days.
- A pet pen is a great way to leave your bunny to run around without constant supervision.
- If placing pen on grass introduce it slowly as rabbits will eat grass and cause them to get dihorrea.
- DO NOT chase your rabbit!! You can cause your bunny to be very scared and can possibly make them aggressive.
- Always make sure you you put your rabbit safely away at night.
General DO's and DONT's
DO
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DON'T
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Illnesses.....
Runny Poo
- Can be a mixture of reasons for this. Some include: too many vegies, tummy upset, kittens tend to get an upset tummy when in new surroundings, ileus.
- Too many vegies: Remove all vegies for a few days then see how they go again. I have a bunny who when given vegies has serious runny poo so unfortunately I cannot give him any at all.
- Tummy upset: Something may not be agreeing with your bunny. Take all food away from them including pellets and give them hay only until the runny poo has cleaned up.
- Kits new home: Just keep going with what your doing and maybe restrict the amount of vegies your giving them.
- Ileus: This happens when rabbits stop eating for one reason or another and can certainly lead to death. Urgent sometimes vetinary help is needed ASAP!
- The picture does not show runny poo and is completely normal for a rabbit to produce these.
- If your bunny hasn't been eating for more than 12 hours then urgent assistance is required.
Myxomatosis
- There is NO injection against this disease!
- It is carried by mosquitoes.
- Symptoms include: Swollen face including eyes, ears, nose and genitals
- This is a contagious disease and a vet must be alerted ASAP. If you have more than one rabbit the infected animal MUST be quarentined away from other bunnies.
- This is a non survivable illness.
- Your rabbit club MUST be informed as well as any other people whose bunnies have come into contact with your infected rabbit.
Calcivirus
- HIGHLY contagious and kills 90% of rabbits.
- Bunnies usually contract fevers and lapse into a coma residing in death.
- Currently there IS a vaccine available for prevention.
Floppy Bunny Syndrome
- Floppy Bunny Syndrome is defined as a sudden onset of paralysis
- Depending on cause rabbits can survive
- There is currently no reason for this syndrome. Sex, age and diet have been considered not a factor
- Research suggests that giving a 'floppy bunny' vitamin E will bring them round and back to normal. Most breeders will do this.
- Floppy bunny is now being treated as fur block. Bunnies will need Vitamin E, rehydrating, syringe feeding and closely monitoring. Please contact me ASAP if your bunny hasnt eaten (therefore runny poo), dehydrated (if a pinch of skin stays upright) or is generally quiet and subdued. All bunnies that haven't eaten or drunk in 24 hrs need vet attention ASAP.
Ear Mites/Canker
- Charecterised by scaly, scabbiness and itching inside the ear
- This is a contagious infection
- Left un-treated can cause skin infections, neurological defects and fatal meningitis
- Veterinary assistant should be sort.